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SOLID MODELAudio & Synth8-Aug-2026

Chevrolet Avalanche iOttie mount for dash blank plate

Strahan201
Strahan201
1 File
stl Format

Description

Hi. I had designed a phone mount that uses the cigarette lighter but I got a new phone and is magsafe so I had to modify that old mount. I decided though rather than do that, I wanted to make it higher up and more secure. My Avalanche has a panel to the right of the HVAC controls where options would be. Whomever bought this new did not opt for many options apparently, lol, as it's mostly filler "poverty panels". Originally I wanted to prototype a complete replacement for that whole assy but trying to model that was a PITA. I really need a 3D scanner, lol. Then it hit me - the bottom two panels are removable so I modeled the left blank instead.

I designed it so I could remove the arm from my iOttie magsafe mount and attach it to the blank. I recessed the arm holder so it wouldn't stick goofy far away from the dash. I was super stoked; I just estimated when designing it and IMO, it came out perfect. It's just the right distance out.

This is my iOttie I used:

https://www.bestbuy.com/product/iottie-itap-3-magsafe-compatible-dashboard-windshield-car-mount-with-magnetic-adapter-ring-black/J3QSCXS6YJ/sku/6583488

If you print this, you just unscrew the up/down adjustment bolt and remove it to separate the arm from the suction base then you push it through the frame of the print and into the receiver in the back. Alas, I'm a 3D printing and 3D design noob so I messed up. My first prototype attempted to replicate GM's stock retention system for the blank but it wasn't working right. I then came up with an alternate where it has blocks that just click past the frame and prevent it from moving forward. Just gotta bend the frame a little as you insert it. It's real easy to do, just don't Superman it and break your frame lol

Also since I'm an idiot designer when I switched to the block retention system, I put it too close to the hole for the bolt so you can't get the bolt in (sigh) Turns out though it really isn't necessary. I designed the receiver to be a very tight tolerance, and it requires enough friction to insert the arm that I am 98% sure it won't budge. I thought about just putting a metal rod through the bolt hole and bending the ends, kind of like a cotter pin, but it feels so secure with just friction I figured I won't waste my time.

If some smart person out there likes this and remixes if to fix that, please post it so I can upgrade :D I'll try later to fix it too but right now I'm not that concerned.

As for print settings, I just did 50% infill and brimmed it. Again, I'm a noob though so don't take my suggestions on this I don't know what TF I'm doing anyway lol.

Downloads

Avalanche_Blank_Plate_-_MkIII.stl
45.1 KB