Animatronic Eye Clock
Description
EDIT: Added 'v5' - now allows you to assemble the eye without having to put it in the enclosure, then the enclosure goes on with only 2 screws. Much easier to recalibrate, make repairs, etc. Also, updated to use USB-C. Old v4 files can still be found in the ZIP.
However - some of the documentation is out of date. Namely - I recommend using the most up-to-date code here - but you will have to specifically check if the servo pins and whatnot match your build.
Over a year in the making! In some ways, I learned CAD just for this project. Any donation is greatly appreciated - but mostly, I just want to bring cool, weird stuff into the world, for free and for as many people as possible.
This may not be the easiest project - a bit of soldering, a bit of wiring, a bit of coding experience would be a boon - but if you have a few projects under your belt, hopefully you can have as much fun with it as I did.
Assembly video is here - not a full walkthrough - just a quick vid to help those putting it togeather
https://youtube.com/shorts/1lXLmHt3Onw?feature=share
See my shoddy wiring diagram for an example of how I have the components set up (though there are other ways, if you are more experienced)
Assembly Notes:
* the axel spacers are not mandatory - they are just spacers that can go between the vertical or horizontal axels and the eyeball, if the fit is too loose and rattles.
Ideally, there should be some space, and it should rotate freely, but if there is too much backlash, the spacer can help.
* My nano did not come with screw holes, so I added notches, thus you can use sandwitch-ties or cable-ties or bits of wire or rubber bands to lash it in place
Designed to be printed flat, with minimal supports, and assembled with mostly m3x6mm screws. All the horns and linkages are labeled with their position - no bending your own armature wire, no misplacing a servo arm!
The parts that need supports:
* 'Lid bottom' - fully support the pivot arms on either side. May need some tlc after printing to ensure they are round
* The 'base' may need some tiny supports just to help the bridging near the servo-holes
Materials needed:
Arduino Nano ~10$ (3 for 20$)
Time Module ~5$ (2 for 7$)
USB-C Port, cable, and charger ~6$ (10 pots for 6$, you may have cable and usb charger lying around)
4x 9g MicroServos ~9$ (5 for 9$)
Servo Board 8$ (2 for 14$)
3d printed parts ~5$
Few cents in screws (30ish m3 6mm/3mm, plus w/e came with your servos, may need a few smaller ones for your electronics, or use zip ties.)
Wires, jumpers, solder ~2$
Here's a shortlist of amazon stuff if you don't know where to start. These aren't affiliate links, and you can source this stuff cheaper elsewhere - but this is mostly what I used. Plus, I much prefer doing electronics with a few spares, makes everything much less stressful if you have a few to burn:
* DS3231 AT24C32 IIC RTC Clock Module - comes with enough wires for the whole proj
* usb-c ports - can use micro-usb or barrel jack or whatever 5v port you prefer
* Elegoo's version of the nano
* PCA9685 16 Channel 12-Bit PWM Servo Motor Driver
Eye diameter is 40mm - though the CAD is somewhat parametric, so you could endeavor to make it any size. OnShape Cad is here
The electronics and eye mechanism come on seperate, slide-in trays - so you can use them in your own projects!
Most up-to-date code here!
I've also attached the older version of the code for the clock (as well as a simple tester script for troubleshooting), just in case.
Also included is the simple printout I used for making irises (simply cut out and glue to iris - wait for inkjet ink to dry before gluing! Otherwise the ink will run and blur the details).
Of course, best used as a template to design your own!
Scalara's were 'painted' with a simplified version of Will Cogley's method - no fussing with resin or mold making, just:
* Frayed red yarn and glue to make the capillaries
* Quick airbrush band (or wet-blend) of red at the rim
* Quick airbrush band (or wet-blend) of yellow/off-white in the middle
* Leave the area near the iris pure-white
* Two quick coats of glossy rattle-can spray varnish to get the wet look
Also: I put a dab of black paint on the pupils before varnishing - as any cheap black paint will still be much darker than the inkjet's black.
You can, of course, program the arduino to behave however you like, using my script as a template. You don't need the RTC module if you are using it as a simple animatronic.
Designed in OnShape, printed in PLA on stock elegoo neptune 3 pro, brims mostly not needed (only for enclosure), and no sanding needed (though I do have my tolerances dialed-in for my particular machine).
As stated, I want to provide better instructions - but some quick tips for those who want to try their hand:
* Don't screw in the horn/arm/pivot screws fully! They are designed to rotate, so unscrew them a turn or so, allowing them to turn freely. They are toleranced for this, and should pivot without issue
* You can, for testing, just power the servo-driver from the arduino, but the servos will be sluggish
* Reset the servos to their middle 90deg before screwing any of the horns in
* the rails have set-screws on the sides to show their intended position
* I recommend gluing the irises into the eyeballs. If you want them swappable, slip a small rubber band on the vert-axis. Then, once the eye is assembled, slip this rubber band through the prong on the back of the iris. (You will likely need a wire or other small pokey tool to help you grab it and slip it around). Warning - this rubber band can get caught on the internals, making this setup less reliable.
* With clever positioning of the eye and lids, you can remove/re-insert the eyeball by only unscrewing 3 screws: the horiz-arm, the vert-arm, and the main anchor point.