Original Project by randofo from Instructables.
License: Attribution-NonCommercial-ShareAlike
The Arduino Project Board is basically a board to transer your ATMEGA168/328 to when you have completed your project and no longer need to use the Arduino as a development board. Simply transfer the programmed chip from the Arduino board to the Arduino project board and you are in business. Now your Arduino is no longer tied up in your finished project and you have a simple breakout board to work with independently of the Arduino.
Here are some basic instructions for assembling it and getting started.
Steps
1
Go Get Stuff:
Go Get Stuff:
The complete Project Board Kit includes:
(x1) 28-pin socket
(x1) 16 mhz crystal
(x2) 22pF capacitors
(x1) 0.1uF, 25V capacitor
(x1) 10uF - 47uF, 25V capacitor
(x1) 1K, 1/4 watt resistor
(x1) tactile switch
(x1) 7805 regulator
(x1) 9V battery clip
*** I still might have a few of these PCBs for sale. Private message me if interested.
(Note that some of the links on this page are affiliate links. This does not change the cost of the item for you. I reinvest whatever proceeds I receive into making new projects. If you would like any suggestions for alternative suppliers, please let me know.)
2
Resistor
Resistor
Resistor
Resistor
Resistor
Solder the 1K resistor to R1 on the board.
Don't forget to clip away the excess leads from the back side of the board.
3
0.1uF Capacitor
0.1uF Capacitor
Solder the 0.1uF capacitor to C4.
4
22pF Capacitors
22pF Capacitors
Solder the 22pF capacitors to C1 and C2 on the board.
5
Switch It Up
Switch It Up
Line up the switch with SW1. Then press it down until it "pops" in and becomes flush with the board.
Solder it in place.
6
Crystal
Crystal
Place the crystal atop XTL and solder it in place.
7
Socket to Me
Socket to Me
Put the socket atop the spot for the Arduino. Make certain that the notch cut into the end of the socket is located next to the 1K resistor.
Solder all 28 pins in place.
8
Electrolytic Capacitor
Electrolytic Capacitor
Solder the electrolytic capacitor in the spot labeled C3.
Don't forget to make sure the "-" stripe on the capacitor is opposite from the + label on the board.
9
Regulate
Regulate
Add the LM7805 voltage regulator to the board in the spot labeled 7805.
The metal plate on the back of the regulator should be on the side opposite of the capacitors.
10
9V Connector
9V Connector
Solder the red wire from the 9V connector to the terminal on the board labeled 9V. Solder the black wire to the terminals labeled GND.
11
Test LED (optional)
Test LED (optional)
I added a test LED to the board of this example to demonstrate it is working.
I suggest that you don't do this if you don't have to and only add the parts you need for your project.
Anyhow... in this example the LED is connected to Pin 12 (Digital Pin 6) and then to ground through a 220 ohm resistor.
12
Program and Transfer
Program and Transfer
Program your chip and transfer it to the board.
Here is the blink code for the LED example shown in Step 11:
/*
Standard Blink example set to Digital Pin 6 (ATMEGA328 pin 12)
There is one long blink on startup before going into main routine
This example code is in the public domain.
*/
void setup() {
// initialize the digital pin as an output.
// Pin 6 has an LED connected on most Arduino boards:
pinMode(6, OUTPUT);
digitalWrite(6, LOW); // startup routine for testing rest button
delay(1000); // LED turns on for 5 seconds and waits for 3
digitalWrite(6, HIGH);
delay(5000);
digitalWrite(6, LOW);
delay(3000);
}
void loop() {
digitalWrite(6, HIGH); // set the LED on
delay(1000); // wait for a second
digitalWrite(6, LOW); // set the LED off
delay(1000); // wait for a second
}
13
Power!
Power!
Plug in a 9V battery and it should be good to go.
14
Use
Use
Once it is built, programmed and powered up, the rest is kind of up to you.
This one blinks. However, you can make it do whatever you want.
Conclusion
Take note of the graphic of the labeled board pin diagram. This shows exactly where each of the Arduino pins are.
Note: pin 7 - pin 10 have no breakouts on the board. To compensate for the power terminals on pins 7 and 8 not being pulled out, 3 extra power and 3 extra ground pads have been included to the right of the Arduino.
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